Domaine Michel Niellon Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021 NO20230802 and unmistakably from somewhere —

and unmistakably from somewhere — a rare California white that drinks like a Loire vigneron made it

and decant off any sediment

The Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rouge is one of the most reliable values in all of France — a benchmark Southern Rhône that consistently overdelivers — and this is the magnum

blooming with heady notes of thyme

built for the long haul and best with food and a little patience

Domaine Michel Niellon Bourgogne Chardonnay 2021 NO20230802 and unmistakably from somewhere —Michel Niellon is one of the great names of Chassagne Montrachet, a tiny domaine of roughly seven hectares whose grand cru Chevalier Montrachet is the stuff of collector obsession. Naturally, almost nobody thinks to buy the Bourgogne. That is the opening. The same hands, the same cellar, the same instinct for cutting minerality and unfussy balance, applied to a wine you can actually open on a Wednesday. It is now three generations deep here, with